“The city of Yokohama is an indispensable part of the story of Japanese jazz.”

Featured in Philip Arneill’s Tokyo Jazz Joints book, DownBeat is one of the classic jazz kissas located in the historical port side block neighborhood of Yokohama’s bar district Noge. Like many post-war establishments in Yokohama, which is known as the birthplace of jazz in Japan, DownBeat first became popular by catering to American soldiers working at U.S. military facilities around the city. The original space hosted live jazz nights performed mostly by American soldiers that soon became frequented by Japanese residents who admired the music for its sense of freedom.

After relocating in 1968, DownBeat has since focused more on their vinyl collection, which traces the history of modern jazz from the swing and bebop era in the ’50s all the way to contemporary jazz. The 3000+ vinyl collection includes albums from famous American labels such as Blue Note, Impulse, and Prestige, European labels such as ECM, MPS, and ENJA, along with contemporary records from around the world. “After decades of repeated use, the jackets are worn and peeling… [the current owner] Mr. Yoshihisa combines the tattered records with current new releases to create the atmosphere of the store with a ‘Downbeat-like’ selection of music.”

A small and intimate space, DownBeat seats around 20-30 people with lounge style seating and minimal, moody lighting. Music is clearly the intention at this establishment, and the sound has been noted to be so loud that conversation can be difficult (amazing). The sound system itself is quite classic for jazz kissas from this era and features a Sony direct drive turntable, Shure V15 cartridge, Accuphase amplifier, and Altec A7 Voice of Theater loudspeakers. A cloud-shaped acoustic panel is attached to the ceiling, and covered with clippings from the Down Beat magazine. Oil paintings of Art Blakey, Oscar Peterson, Sonny Rollins, Miles Davis, and other legends line the walls. “Smoked by cigarette smoke, they are now more like tar paintings than oil paintings, which makes them even more valuable.”

In recent years, DownBeat has become even more popular, bringing in a younger generation of fans. Niew Media’s Mitsutaka Nagira writes, “Why is such a long-established store attracting attention now? The answer lies in the presence of Shuhei Yoshihisa, who now runs the store as the owner. Downbeat, which has been in business for 68 years this year, was run by its first owner, Hayato Anbo, until the 1990s. When Mr. Yasuho passed away, Kohei Tanaka, a long-time regular customer, took over the business to ensure its survival. Later, when Mr. Tanaka, the second-generation owner, decided to let the restaurant go, the current owner, Mr. Yoshihisa, who became the young owner in his 30s, was also a regular customer who had been coming to Downbeat since his student days. In other words, Downbeat is a jazz cafe that has been preserved by regulars who know the atmosphere and music selection trends. It’s easy to see how the atmosphere has been preserved by the three owners over its long history. It is not only about the time-traveling space. The most important point lies in its music selection.”

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