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Masako: Jazz, Coffee, and Minyo Crusaders at Shimokitazawa’s Oldest Jazz Kissa
Visiting one of Tokyo’s oldest jazz kissas with filmmaker Nick Dwyer…
Last November, I spent an evening visiting listening bars with my friend Nick Dwyer, a New Zealand-born, Tokyo-based writer, director, and filmmaker who is currently working on a six-part documentary series called A Century In Sound, which tells the story of Japan’s “ongaku kissa” (music cafe) culture across its hundred-year history, from the end of the Meiji era to the surging interest that surrounds the culture today. A Century In Sound will be released globally sometime in 2025 and will also come in the form of a photo book. Read more about Nick and the upcoming series here.
We met up in Shimokitazawa, a popular neighborhood where many amazing record shops are located including pianola records, Ella Records, Rana Musica, and Disk Union, along with Upstairs Records & Bar (which we featured here) and spread, a basement level performance space where I saw Melbourne-based experimental duo CS+Kreme perform just a few days prior. Nick was quick to point out Shimokitazawa’s role in underground music culture:
“Historically, Shimokitazawa has always been this kind of bohemian, culturally rich neighborhood in Tokyo. It’s very close proximity to Shibuya, Shinjuku, and two of the major universities: Meiji University and Tokyo University. In the ’60s, it was a very important place in the student movement, and became a real hub for underground culture. A lot of the students would hang out here so it became a place with a large concentration of jazz kissas, record stores, curry shops, and second-hand clothing stores. Anything that young people need in their lives: music, clothing, culture, Shimokitazawa is the place for it.”
“Masako is the perfect encapsulation of what I like to call a neighborhood jazz kissa. After a long hard day of work, it’s the kind of place that you pop in to and it just regenerates your soul.”
Our first stop was just a five-minute walk from Shimokitazawa station. Located in a cozy second-floor space, Masako: Jazz & Coffee had an immediately warm feeling with its wooden interior, an entire wall stacked with hundreds of records, and a few students seated on a couch silently listening to jazz played through a pair of vintage JBL4343B speakers. I noticed a few beautiful oil paintings of legendary jazz musicians (Eric Dolphy, Miles Davis, Charles Mingus) around the room, and Nick pulled out a matchbook featuring a smiling woman holding an umbrella huddled next to jazz pianist Mal Waldron, while sharing the history of the space:
“Masako was started in 1951 by a woman named Masako Okuda, who was like a really big personality — a gregarious woman. For decades, Masako was an absolute icon in the neighborhood. A lot of the jazz legends coming to Tokyo in the ’60s became aware of Masako and became friends with the owner. Mal Waldron was a close friend of hers. Charles Mingus also went there. Masako would always be going to all the live jazz shows and was like an icon within the jazz community in the ’50s and ’60s.”
We ordered a few drinks from a younger woman, who I learned was the new owner of Masako, which re-launched in 2020 at its current location. I asked Nick whether jazz kissa culture was changing with many of the original owners now passing away, and he spoke passionately about how a new generation of kissa owners is actually revitalizing the culture with fresh ideas. A 2021 Time Capsule compilation of music by Angolan musician Mário Rui Silva played while Nick explained:
“This new generation of jazz kissa owner is putting their own twist on things. They play records from the era, but they also play new records and expand on the idea of jazz kissa.”
“Masako has always been run by women who love jazz. The current owner, Moeko Hayashi, is not only a deep jazz head, but she also plays keyboards in a band called Minyo Crusaders. What’s really exciting about this new generation of jazz kissa owner is that they’re putting their own twist on things. They play records from the era, but they also play new records and expand on the idea of jazz kissa. It’s kind of more just ‘listening music.’ At the moment, you could go and hear a new Carlos Niño record or a Fabiano do Nascimento record. In the evenings they might be playing Arthur Russell or Jon Hassell.”
Nick’s description of “listening music” immediately brought me back to our listening bar in the Arts District where we’d play similar music, though interestingly, the order was flipped; we would play contemporary releases, ambient, and experimental music during the quiet daytime hours, and then switch to upbeat, classic jazz records as the night crowd came through. Sitting there quietly listening to music with Nick made me miss the now shuttered In Sheep’s Clothing’s bar immensely, and I was reminded of how essential a listening space can be for music lovers.
“For me, Masako is the perfect encapsulation of what I like to call a neighborhood jazz kissa. After a long hard day of work, it’s the kind of place that you pop in to and it just regenerates your soul. It’s a beautiful place. It’s not exactly an audiophile sound system, but it’s exactly what you want. They play records loud. There’s a no talking policy, but that loosens up a little bit in the evening.”
Follow A Century In Sound: https://www.instagram.com/acenturyinsound/
Follow Nick Dwyer: https://www.instagram.com/nickdwyernz/
Follow Lee Chapman: https://www.instagram.com/tokyotimes_lee/
